The constant press of sweaty specimens of your own kind, often from less than privileged backgrounds, hosting despair and grime accumulated from a full day at work and wasting away to oblivion with each iteration of this exercise, normally enacted twice or more every 24 hours hardly reeks with romance.The social and economic fault lines that fracture our demography and often, our perspective, dissolve into one unified mass of flesh, blood et al when subjected by circumstance to accommodate oneself and more importantly, ones snobbery and ego in the stingy confines of a bombay local train. I disembarked at bandra station, from a suburban local, with scenes of my forthcoming adventure(as i imagined it then) playing out, way prematurely, before my eyes.Pushing past bodies of all shapes,sizes and genders, i emerged from the station to this bustling and in-patches-hip western suburb of bombay. Bandra is a microcosm of bombay in a sense that, some of the most posh locales of this metropolis unravel over the expanse of this suburb, in complete harmony with the squalor of slums and bazaars that seem to have sprung up, impromptu, in what is, a scene of total chaos and arbitrariness.
Like much else in Bombay, the sheer throb of energy and life will blitz you as you come out the station, to bandra(west). There are stalls dishing out non-vegetarian delicacies, mostly grilled fare, adhering to age old recipes. Patrons throng the stalls, spilling onto the streets, because, like everywhere else in bombay, there’s just not enough space for every one of this great city’s minions.Jostling through a spate of communal dinners, i reached the auto stand where majority of drivers were wearing skull caps and fashioned longish, unkempt beards.To one, unbaptised in the ways of this city, they would’ve appeared intimidating, malevolent even, but of course, mostly such pre-conceptions are grossly unfounded.Aboard an auto, i made my way to the Mount Mary church, negotiating bombay’s chronic traffic snarls.Off carter road, perched atop an 80 meter hillock, mount mary church has always been a centre of pilgrimage for the city’s Catholics, most of whom trace their roots to the southern indian state of kerala, not to mention, being a constant installation on the intinerary of most tourists, visiting bombay. After paying the auto-wallah and sending him along, i found myself standing on the cobbled street that snakes across the very pinnacle of the hillock, right in front of the church.There were stalls by the side of this narrow street selling candles and incense sticks.Hawkers, calling out in their unique tenors, trying to persuade devotees to anoint the virgin with their merchandise.Its not everyday that i visit a church.I find people my age, calling themselves atheists, simply because its the new cool. Wary of the just-another-prick-in-the-wall connotation of being a public atheist, i choose to call myself agnostic.Quite often, the thankless place this world is, when i have no-one in particular to bestow my gratitude upon, i think of god.Or when i am in grave trouble, of nature, that doesn’t allow it to be divulged to parents and seek solace in their authority and experience.Otherwise, its an existence giving fuck all and receiving the same in return.In any case, in a country where communal boundaries are intermittently and alternately,well-defined and porous, as the situation dictates, hindu by birth, that i am, praying in the church was never of particular allure or imminence.
Stepping the threshold of the main sanctum of the church, the peace of the place, the unblemished calm suffusing the insides of the church struck me like a poetic irony given the bustle of bombay, outside. There were rows of benches leading to the shrine where people sat, bovine and placid expressions on their faces, enjoying a temporary vaulted existence, insulated that they were from the goings-on of multitudinous lives unfolding outside, inadvertently linked to their own.Like a Bedouin relishing the oasis before heading out to face the rigours of his existence in the unforgiving desert. There was a knot of people at the front, kneeling, standing, lying prostate, praying before the virgin. A few were busy with their purses and wallets, extracting currency notes and coins and dropping them in the Donation-Box . It was then that this girl caught my eye. She was placing a candle on the altar, shaped liked a foot, knee down.Probably for an arthritic mother, i thought.It is fabled that if people suffering from bodily ailments, pray before the virgin, offering candles in shape of the affected body parts, the virgin alleviates the true believers of their afflictions.The girl was darkish in complexion, a certain shade of brown that people from peninsular india often display.Her hair was tied back in a severe pony-tail and she had a grave, almost sullen look to her face.She was wearing a white kurta that perfectly accentuated and flattered her measly curves over tight-fitting glacial blue denim trousers.Altogether, she wasn’t exactly unattractive, quite the opposite in fact. She mustn’t have been more than 25 or so i guessed.What struck me the most was the almost-contrived formality and severity about her.I thought she was too young to sport the demeanor, she had.I was intrigued, I admit.Anyhow, in order to seem the part, i clasped my palms together and closed my eyes in a silent prayer.Then, I reached for my wallet just as she was turned around to make her way out. In my almost-comical captivation, I dropped a 100 rupee note instead of a 10 rupee one in the donations-box. Cursing out aloud on realising my folly, i prompted condescending looks from retirees around me…’today’s generation’…Thoroughly embarrassed, i lumbered down the hall and out the doorway.By now, i had lost the girl and given the sheer profusion of humanity around me, i decided it futile to seek her out. In any case, her hold on my mind had worn off. I mean a random good looking girl can detain the imagination of a guy my age, only so long.
Stepping out in the sanguine, evening light from a sun in descent, amidst lank shadows, i decided to stick to my plans and check out the Band stand. a cobblestone street ran down the western face of the hillock leading straight to the sea facing promenade.By the side of the road, embracing the contours of the shore, runs a cemented track for the joggers. Beyond this track, lie the sea facing rocks spread right across the shoreline till the bandra fort and the Lands-End after which, the land pulls back in to form a peninsula of sorts and then after a luxurious curve, again heads out in the general westward direction and therein lies worli. And connecting the bandra reclamation with the worli sea-face, circumventing the tortuous road that obeys the curve of the shore and lies stricken with a pathological traffic issue, straddling the sea in awesome majesty is the bandra-worli sea-link.
Love birds make a beeline for the sea facing rocks, especially those, deficient in monetary resources to sponsor expensive dating options.And then facing the sea, in setting sun is a romantic rendition of any and every circumstance.In a city where change and transience are the only constants, the sea, is probably the only entity that day in day out manages to keep itself pristine from external influences and feigns a convincing, unchanging veneer.Its hard not to be sedated and calmed by such a presence.I strolled amidst deepening shadows, keeping the sea, company, till i reached Taj Lands-end, beyond which, clinging to an infant hillock, rose the last remaining, crumbling ramparts of the bandra fort.The hotel, i could sight from outside its gates had a most impressive facade.A gargantuan awning over an equally imposing doorway.Cars were being inspected by the gate by security men using detectors to trace hidden explosives.It was here, i saw her again.She was talking to one of the guards about something, in hindi, i guessed, trying to explain to him her predicament, or so it seemed.He let her in.I could see her figure ascend the staircase at the entrance of the edifice of the hotel and disappear inside revolving doors, that no doubt led to the reception.I dwelt upon her for a while before succumbing to my immediate environs.A climb up the hillock unearthed a spectacular view of the city.I could see the sea-link, winding about in its course, just a stone throw away.There were couples snuggling up to each other, oblivious to the apprehensive gazes of familial groups. Against the backdrop of a setting sun, they cut harmonious silhouettes as two bodies united into one in perfect cohesion, yin-yang, at the crucible of faith, hope and everything else, that induces an exhilaration in those embalmed in love. i could only look on in longing, quietly envious……hoping to intercept and to immerse myself in the dense syrupy vibes that were eddying all around me in tumultuous expressions of love, the next time i would visit the place.
I was staying at my aunt’s place, in bombay. Observing my keenness and excitement towards bombay and trusting my instincts now that i was 19, she had let me venture out and examine the city at my own leisurely pace.I did not want to put her receptiveness towards my spirit of adventure to test and hence after this trip, i refrained from mentioning or remarking about places in bombay that fascinated me, lest she misconstrue it as a masked, roundabout request to let me out of bounds again.The morning, three days post this trip, i was sitting on the sofa, languid, sipping tea and gazing across the newspaper spread out over the coffee table, when a certain headline caught my eye.
Body fished from sea at Bandra
Taj lands-end implicated
bandra,8.10.2010, a body was fished from the sea last evening here, at bandra fort.It was found floating amidst the rocks in highly mutilated condition that seems suggestive of a fall from the cliffs overlooking the sea .It was found at around 17.30 in the evening by a koli fisherman who was looking for a cove amongst the rocks to shelter his boat for the night, since a high tide had been predicted.The body was then sent for autopsy at the Bhabha hospital, carter road.Initial post-mortem reports suggest a death by drowning with a broken right arm, probably owing to the fall. Alcohol concentration in her blood was through the roof and it is believed that she must have lost her footing and fallen to her death in the rocks and the churning sea below sometime between 12 and 2 o clock, on 6th night.Police investigations, our sources tell us, have revealed a shocking twist to what shoud’ve have been a regular documentation of an accident.It turns out, the lady in question, Pearl Gonsalves was a call-girl. Records at Taj Lands end testify her presence in the hotel between 18.45 and 21.30, on the 6th. There was a room booked in the name of one Ram Bhalla, who is understood to be a ‘client’ of hers.Police are in the process of questioning the concierge and the employees of the hotel to investigate if the hotel authorities were aware that their premises were being used for such illicit activities.Meanwhile the husband of the victim, Varghese Gonsalves came forward to claim the body and was grilled by police in relation to his wife’s alleged profession.He is paralytic, hips down, owing to an accident last year on Linking road.He lost his job, soon after and this is what is said to have caused her to enter the flesh trade.
It all seemed sensational to me.Right out of a prime-time melodrama.I mean, of course, i did not know the name of the girl in white, whose mere presence had laid siege on my thoughts for most part of that fateful evening, but somehow it all seemed fitting.As if this news was the last piece of some complex jigsaw.It was inside me, this worm of belief, that somehow, even though unsubstantiated, dethroned every thought, however critical, from my mind and made me feel like an unsuspecting, clueless character of some abominable script, schemed by an unfathomable monument of power.I did not know how it changed things for me because i quite obviously had nothing to do with whatever had unfolded there except for the fact that i just happened to be one person in a city if 19 million who was fated to spectate the sad events, real time, from the sidelines.I somehow felt connected.i somehow felt lost.And i couldn’t even tell my mom.
The next day, there was an obituary in the newspaper.There was her photo with the regular accompaniments.It was Pearl, all right.My first glance at the photo, almost made me snap my fingers. Some inscrutable cog had just snuggled into place. The knee jerk was like, ‘i told you so’ to no-one in particular, more to myself.The mass was to be carried out at St. Andrews church and she was to be buried in a cemetery behind the church, within the precincts of the same.I said a silent prayer in my mind for her soul to attain peace and solitude.After all that she had been through, i guess it was the least she deserved.As a side-thought, that candle she lit at the Virgin’s altar, that was for her husband.
My stay at bombay came to an end 3 days after the obituary featured in the newspaper.I was back in my old life, grappling, coming to terms with the humdrum of my regular existence.It does take a departure of no small measure,from the lofty insinuations, to get the mind back to the insignificant scheme of everyday life after having tasted the heady, not altogether unpleasant cocktail of co-incidence and sensationalism.I told a few friends about this, relishing the sight of their eye-brows, wrinkled together in rapt attention, and a comic-disbelief gracing their faces.These sessions though almost always ended on a sorry note with me always promising and consoling my psyche, that i could have done nothing at all to prevent the horrific events.That when the wheels have been set into motion by a true authority, you can do nothing but comply and play your part with diligence and resignation.It was one of these days that i happened to look up Mount Mary church on Wikipedia.This is what i chanced upon.
“Although the current church edifice is just 100 years old, the history behind the current statue of Our Lady goes back to the 16th century when Jesuit priests from Portugal brought the statue to the current location and constructed a chapel. In 1700 Arab pirates interested in the gilt-lined object held in the hand disfigured the statue by cutting off the right hand.
In 1760, the church was rebuilt and the statue was substituted with a statue of Our Lady of Navigators in St. Andrew’s church nearby. This statue has an interesting legend. It goes that a Koli fisherman dreamt that he would find a statue in the sea. The statue was found floating in the sea between 1700 and 1760. A Jesuit Annual Letter dated to 1669 and published in the book St. Andrew’s Church, Bandra (1616–1966) supports this claim. The Koli Fishermen call the statue as Mot Mauli, literally meaning The Pearl Mother”
I could scarcely believe my eyes.All i could say is, i was converted.I was, now a believer.As for Pearl, well….all i can say is virgin mary answered her prayers.
For me, it instilled a fear and awe of the divine in me.It certainly did.